Four Times Le Jardin Retrouvé

In 1975, Yuri Gutsatz, a renowned Master Perfumer, rejecting the constraints of traditional perfumery dominated by marketing, became the first perfumer to found his own House. In 2016, Clara and Michel Gutsatz boldly reinvented Le Jardin Retrouvé, while keeping the delicate formulas of Yuri and his historical suppliers…

HOUSE: Le Jardin Retrouvé
ORIGIN: France
FRAGRANCE: Citron Boboli, Eau des Délices, Jasmin Majorelle, Oriental Sans Souci
SIZE/COST: 50ml / $89-144
NOSE: Yuri Gutsatz

Citron Boboli (originally Citron Poivré): Fresh, clean and citrus-scented this brings all that twists. It’s a refined and thoughtful Spring/Summer fragrance that will uplift any day or not, really. The spices are inspired, and this is a long walk through a drooping field of trees with grapefruit, lemon, lime and orange ripe for the picking. It’s colorful and warm from the inside out. Stimulating, yet peaceful, in the same breath. There’s not much else to say, except they nailed that sensibility of the Italian alps, all that fresh air perfumed by these delectable fruits. (86%)

Notes: citrus, warm spices (EDP, 1977)

Eau des Délices: This one also brings on a round of citrus, but here it’s a slight bit more bitter, with an updraft of something slightly more exotic. A pensive perfume with a musk trail. This is the only Eau Fraiche here, which is only intended to last a few hours on your skin, however at that point this will be a wondrous skin scent that sort of plays with an equatorial vibe. It’s a bit tropical without adding the pop of pineapple or the drop of coconut – instead it feels as though you are in a field of citrus flowers before the fruit have fully bloomed. It’s about patience, gestation, timing. It also reminds me of herbal garnish, that clean green you get from coriander or parsley or even cilantro to a lesser extent. This goes deep into he psyche, keep an open mind, and set of passages to receive this in full. (89%)

Notes: Italian lemon, petit grain, orange from Brazil, musk (Eau Fraiche, 1982)

Jasmin Majorelle: Jasmine is a flower that can attract or repel depending on mood and taste of course. It can go too far into the beating heart of the common sachet – but not here, it is a silky pastel plume as if you are instantly dropped into a setting where you are front and center with that extraordinary moment that screams Springtime! This perfume packs a wallop where it comes to the flurry of flowery flourishes and all that is fairly fictional as pertaining to the season. Not only is this a fresh waft of jasmine, more than a waft mind you, it also seems to draw from an accord that smells of honeysuckle and lilac as well. One of the reasons that this has such impact is the way it incorporates as snaking green note that is grassy and a touch bitter amid the sweetest of full bloom floral aromas. For those who love that floral blast, sign up now, and step forth into this most lavish of gardens that finishes with a breathy botanical musk that goes for hours on end. (87%)

Notes: jasmine, ylang ylang, coriander, white musk (EDP, 1981)

Oriental Sans Souci: Hmmmm, this is unique, and oddly I saved the best for last. This is between a fougere and an ‘oriental’ but has the hutzpah to bring the deep balsamic meets resinous effervescence front he most magical of tree sap and residue. Wow, this fragrance is really one of those deep-seated cerebral works of artful perfumery that has such a changing character throughout its wearing. At points I get hints of floral, but then its woody, and then I get spices that remind me of a combination of anise mixed with vanilla to make something like a peppery sarsaparilla. It’s also as if you just left the barbers and had one of those close to the crown haircuts and was freshly dusted with talc and the vague aroma of barbicides still lingering in the air. And now I’m out on a quite coastline, on the road to nowhere and all is good. It’s just plain handsome, that’s an apt way to describe it. Kick off your shoes and find a bottle, stat – this a limited edition after all. (91%)

Notes: bergamot, jasmine, resins (EDP/Ltd Ed, 1963)

Recommended Soundtrack:
Monokini by Stereo Total (1997)

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